Then we strike out for the western coast of Skye. We had an hour-long drive, most of it on a really rough single track road that has been described as “entertaining.” This photo along the way shows the white houses that you see on the island. Typical Skye scene.

We stopped at a bakery to pick up sandwiches for lunch

then we arrive at our starting point and get our gear together.

Our hike today was 7 plus miles and we started out at the isolated farmstead of Ramasaig, following a track by a sheep pen, then through a couple of gates into the pasture.

Because of the rain yesterday the ground was muddy and water ran down the track.

Then we start going uphill.

Below us were the ruins of another Clearance area; crofters from here either went to Nova Scotia on the ship Midlothian or faced jail. Those age 70 or older were sent to the poorhouse, which is a bit unnerving.

At this point we were above Lorgill Bay, where the ship picked them up in 1830.

Now we go uphill through heather, rocks, and marshy grass.

But we scrambled and finally got near the top where we found some fantastic views. From this spot we could look across the Little Minch and see part of the Outer Hebrides.

We sat on rocks and the plastic bags Ruth gave us to keep our bottoms dry and ate lunch.

Facing into the wind. Behind us is the Duirinish Coast.

Soaking in the view before we start off again.

A major rain cloud started moving in and we continued going up the cliffs still on uneven, squishy ground until we reached the top of Hoe Point.

We pause to take another look around.

There were some caves way down at the bottom of Hoe Point.

Then we look further north and see the jutting Ramasaig Cliff and Waterstein Head, the tallest cliff along here at just under 1,000 feet. Kind of feels like the edge of the world.

Taking in the view. Stuart, on the left, was our guide for today.

There are tiny sheep all the way out on this point.

Going downhill now.

The rain stopped but at this point our feet were wet from stepping in puddles and crossing streams and a few streams required some thought before picking a way across.

So after our nice downhill, we have a climb to the van and check out the Cheviot sheep on the way. Ross and I thought the pasture was overgrazed.

At the van,we stripped off rain pants, put on dry socks, and headed to Dunvegan Castle, civilization, and a loo.

The castle was the home of Clan MacLeod for 800 years and is still the home of the present Chief. We drive on for another half hour and reach our new home for two nights, the Cuillin House in Portree. Nice.

Dinner that night provides another opportunity for sticky toffee pudding and of course we eat it. Have to have strength for tomorrow’s hike.

I first had this pudding on Inishmore Island off the coast of Ireland during a bicycle trip. The landlady at the inn where we were staying shared her recipe with us and also steered me to Darina Allen’s Ballymaloe Cooking School Cookbook. This recipe is from that cookbook.

1 stick unsalted butter (1/2 cup)

1 1/4 cups tea

1 1/3 cups chopped dates

1 tsp baking soda

3/4 cup sugar

2 cups self-raising flour

3 eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 tsp espresso coffee

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Soak dates in hot tea for 15 minutes. Brush an 8-inch springform pan with removable bottom with oil and line the bottom of the pan with oiled waxed paper. Cream together the butter and sugar till light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time then fold in the sifted flour. Add baking soda, vanilla extract,and coffee to the dates and tea, and stir this into the batter. Turn into the lined pan and bake in the pre-heated oven for 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until a skewer comes out clean. About 10 minutes before the end of baking time make the hot toffee sauce. To serve: pour some hot sauce on a serving plate. Put the sticky pudding on top, pour more sauce over the top. Serve with either ice cream or whipped cream. Serves 6 to 8.

1 stick butter (1/2 cup)

3/4 cup dark brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 cup plus 2 tbsp corn syrup and 2 tbsp molasses

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Put the butter, sugars, corn syrup, and molasses in a heavy saucepan and melt gently over low heat. Simmer for about 5 minutes, remove from heat, and gradually stir in cream and vanilla extract. Return to heat and stir for 2-3 minutes, until the sauce is absolutely smooth. Serve with sticky toffee pudding. Enjoy!