Yellowstone: Midway Geyser Basin and Grand Prismatic Spring

Last night was stormy with some exceptional lightning and we still had rain this morning which delayed our departure. We hope the rain will help douse the forest fires west of us. So we headed back into the park around 11 am and got into the West Gate with only about a 10-minute wait.

Then it took us 30 minutes to drive to Midway Geyser Basin and Grand Prismatic Spring. Although the parking lot was full, we didn’t have to wait long to find a spot. We were traveling along the Firehole River on the way there.

Firehole River

After we park, we first see the runoff from the Excelsior Geyser Crater. The geyser pumps more than 4,000 gallons of boiling water per minute over the crater rim into the Firehole River.

Runoff from Excelsior Geyser Crater

The Excelsior Geyser first erupted in the 1880s creating the jagged crater but ceased eruptions after 1890. Then in 1985 it erupted for 47 hours before ceasing again. It doesn’t erupt now but boils as a hot spring. I read that the current issue at Yellowstone is earthquakes rather than concern about volcanic activity. Between 700 to 3,000 earthquakes occur in the park each year, but most are 2 or 3 on the Richter Scale and are not felt. They result from the network of faults associated with the volcano but are likely caused by changes in snow melt, not magmatic activity. But the earthquakes can be responsible for tectonic shifts underground and cause geysers to cease erupting or vice versa. In July this year, there were 1.000 quakes – more than 700 in one day under Yellowstone Lake.

Excelsior Geyser Crater

We continued along the boardwalk to Grand Prismatic Spring, one of Yellowstone’s largest and most brilliant hot springs. Today it was covered with so much steam because the outside air was so cool, that it was hard to see much. It’s 200 feet across and the water at 169 degrees keeps the spring covered in steam. The orange color encircling the spring is caused by thermophiles, bacteria-like organisms that thrive at high temperatures.

We leave here and make a stop to eat lunch at a pullout just south of Grand Prismatic which overlooked the Flood Geyser.

Next stop was Fairy Falls Trailhead. From the parking lot, the trail crosses a steel bridge over the Firehole River, then continues along the Fountain Freight Road for a mile, before turning left onto the Fairy Falls Hiking trail. This was a six-mile round trip for us. Most of the walk was through forest that had burned in 1988 and now 30 years later, was recovering.

One of the first flowers to bloom after fire is the appropriately-named Fireweed.

We have a few rest stops along the way. We are still recovering from our Covid year of non-activity, plus aging, plus altitude. Ross’ watch told him that he was acclimated for 4,000 feet today. We were at 6,800 feet, so still some gasping for air going on.

You can hear the falls before you see it and at nearly 200 feet, this is the tallest frontcountry falls in Yellowstone.

To get really close to Fairy Falls, you have to go over a huge log. This is not a simple process. Ross jumped on the log stomach first and managed to get across. I had to go find another log that gave me a step up and then maneuver over.

A closer view.

The area abounds with the ubiquitous chipmunks though and they are unafraid little beasts. Must be spoiled by tourists.

Ross and I head back on the same path but the kids planned to go another 1/2 mile to Imperial Geyser. They could not find where the trail continued, however, and soon catch up with us. On the way back we take the 1/2 mile trail to the Grand Prismatic Overlook.

From here, we have a terrific and finally, clear view of the spring.

We leave the park afterwards and travel back out the West Entrance. Dinner tonight was takeout from the Firehole Barbeque Company and it was delicious. We had pulled pork, macaroni and cheese, and corn salad from there.

A bit of excitement at the house we rented is a “problem” bear in the area. Our trash receptacle is at the bottom of the driveway and is about six feet wide by six feet long and four to five feet tall. Apparently the bear had tipped it over at one point when it was full of trash. Strong bear. Subsequently a combination lock was added. We also have a hot tub on an outdoor patio but the info about the bear keeps our evening hot tubbers on the alert.

And, in the park, our three-car caravan depends on walkie-talkies to keep in touch. There’s absolutely no phone service in most of the park and we don’t get a signal until we get to the park entrance in West Yellowstone. Tonight we remember that we left our walkie-talkie turned on in the car. And now it’s dark and we choose not to go outside. No problem. Our grandson brought 20 extra batteries.

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