Day 4: The Devil’s Staircase and a Walk in the Woods

Breakfast starts at 8:15 here and we are told to be in line at the door at 8:12 because it gets really busy. We make it and I order the full Scottish but only eat the eggs, bacon, and beans.

Today we have two hiking choices: the 6 plus mile hike up and down the Devil’s Staircase or the 4 plus mile walk to Signal Rock. We choose the latter and most of the kids do the staircase. So first the Signal Rock walk or what I felt was the Hobbit walk. This hike starts with walking out of the hotel, crossing the road near this sign,

and going into the woods.

Going along the trail.

A stream we crossed.

We pass by the marker for Signal Rock but never get a clear view. So we may have seen it but just didn’t know it. Supposedly, the signal to start the Glencoe Massacre was given by the Campbells from this rock.

A house we passed by.

A Munro in the distance.

Two dwarf Shetland ponies.

Maybe Thorin’s brother Torren.

Walking along the road.

Our guide gave us some Tablet to eat. He actually made it himself and we have not mentioned it before, but it was a frequent treat and the closest thing I could compare it to is penuche. Maybe harder and a little more grainy than fudge.

Getting ready to cross the road. Just happens to be a “passing place” sign here by the single track road.

We actually see the Pap a little later.

Continuing along our woodland trail.

Coming into Glencoe we see hydrangeas.

And an old phone booth,

And then look back to see the Pap of Glencoe.

A view of the main street in Glencoe, population 374.

Most of the houses have names.

Another interesting sign.

And a stop for coffee at a craft shop.

We are now very near the west coast; this is seawater.

In the meantime the rest of the group was starting the Devil’s Staircase hike. They took the shuttle from the hotel and began their hike at Altnafeadh. This trail is part of the West HIghland Way and was originally given its name by soldiers who were part of the road building effort in the area and had to carry building materials along the trail. British Army officer George Wade was responsible for building over 200 miles of road in Scotland between approximately 1725 and 1737, some of which is still in existence.

Going uphill.

Still climbing.

Looking up at the trail.

Looking back from near the top. The shuttle had parked near the clump of trees.

Starting the long descent.

Still going downhill toward Kinlochleven.

After the hikes, we meet up at the Laroch Restaurant in Glencoe for lunch.

For almost all of our dinners we have a choice among three starters, three main courses, and three desserts. Lunch is usually just a choice of main course and dessert. Really no tough decision today as sticky toffee pudding was one of the offerings.

Lunch was a success, perhaps because there is a Michelin Star attached here somehow. Not the restaurant, but I think the chef previously had worked in a Michelin Star restaurant. We will be back. And indeed we choose to have dinner here instead of at the Clachaig. I have Thai Green Curry Chicken, best meal of the trip for me.

But now we are back in the shuttle and stop to visit the memorial for the Glencoe Massacre.

In 1692, some 38 members of the MacDonald Clan were killed near Glencoe by government forces commanded by a member of the Campbell Clan, for failing to pledge allegiance to the new King William and Queen Mary in a timely fashion. In addition to the killing of clan members, homes were destroyed, and cattle stolen. This explains the “no Campbells” sign at our hotel.

View from the site.

After dinner, we pack up, ready for a move to a different hotel tomorrow.

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